While floating on the Dead Sea we chatted with some Germans who had driven all the way here! It was a rally to raise money for a charity here. They bought old cars, drove them almost 3,000 miles, not counting ferries they had to take because Syria and Egypt wouldn't let them cross.

That means beautiful country, and I mean more than the landscape! Everyone we've met has been lovely! One of our first points of contact was named Isa (Arabic for Jesus), and he was wearing a crucifix on his necklace.

One of our drivers told us how glad he was that Americans assassinated Osama bin ...